Bengbu SMK Auto Parts Co.,Ltd attend the Automotive Aftermarket Products Expo AAPEX 2024 in Las Vegas, USA. We Produce Suspension & Steering Parts Fits for VAG VW Skoda Seat Audi BMW Mini Mercedes Benz Smart Porsche Tesla Land Rover Jaguar Ford Fiat Opel Vauxhall Chevrolet Nissan Renault Toyota Mitsubishi Suzuki Peugeot Citroen Hyundai Kia Daewoo Lexus Acura Infiniti Sabaru Volvo Saab Jeep Chrysler Dodge Mercury GMC Lincoln Cadillac... Besides, We supply aftermarket parts for Tesla Model 3 Y S X Car, and stock available.

Bengbu SMK Auto Parts Co.,Ltd Attend the auto parts show of MIMS Automobility Moscow 2024 where we meet the customers from Russia there. We produce and supply suspension and steering parts such as control arm ball joint steering knucle shock absorber engine mounting to Russia market for Japanese car, Europe Car, Chinese car...

The Suspension Parts List and Catalogue for Tesla Model Y diagram online, contact for pdf files Model Y Collision Repair Procedures Manual aftermarket replace parts only 31 - Suspension Front and Rear Knuckle - Hub and Bearing Front and Rear Stabilizer Bar and Links Front and Rear Suspension Arms Front Coil Spring and Damper Rear Coil Spring and Damper 30 - Chassis 3001 - Chassis and Subframes FRONT SUBFRAME ASSEMBLY 1044531-01-B REAR SUBFRAME ASSEMBLY 1044580-01-D REAR SUBFRAME SHEAR PLATE- FRONT - RIGHT HAND 1044576-00-D REAR SUBFRAME SHEAR PLATE- FRONT - LEFT HAND 1044573-00-D 3101 - Front Suspension (including Hubs) FRONT KNUCKLE - LEFT HAND 1188311-00-F FRONT KNUCKLE - RIGHT HAND 1188316-00-F DRIVEN HUB 150MM FLANGE 1044121-00-E NON DRIVEN HUB 150MM FLANGE 1044122-00-E DRIVEN HUB 142MM FLANGE 1044123-00-B FR LWR COMP LINK ASSY CN, ZF LH 2188354-10-B FR LWR COMP LINK ASSY, CN, RH 2188359-10-B FRONT LOWER LATERAL LINK ASSEMBLY 1188341-00-C FRONT UPPER CONTROL ARM ASSEMBLY - LEFT HAND 1044321-00-J FRONT UPPER CONTROL ARM ASSEMBLY - RIGHT HAND 1044326-00-J FRONT UPPER CONTROL ARM ASSEMBLY - LEFT HAND 1188321-00-A FRONT UPPER CONTROL ARM ASSEMBLY - RIGHT HAND 1188326-00-A FRONT HEIGHT SENSOR ASSEMBLY - LEFT HAND 1044941-00-B FRONT STABILIZER BAR ASSEMBLY 28 MM X 5.0 MM 1144387-00-B FRONT STABILIZER BAR ASSEMBLY - 31MM X 4.7 MM 1188386-00-A FRONT STABILIZER LINK ASSEMBLY- LEFT HAND 1188391-00-B FRONT STABILIZER LINK ASSEMBLY- RIGHT HAND 1188396-00-B FRONT BRACKET- STABILIZER BAR BUSHING 1188383-00-A 3103 - Rear Suspension (including Hubs) REAR KNUCKLE ASSEMBLY - LEFT HAND 1188411-00-G REAR KNUCKLE ASSEMBLY - RIGHT HAND 1188416-00-G DRIVEN HUB 142MM FLANGE 1044123-00-B REAR LOWER AFT LINK ASSEMBLY 1044451-00-F REAR UPPER AFT LINK ASSEMBLY - 25X19 1188423-00-A REAR UPPER AFT LINK ASSEMBLY - 25X19 1188423-00-B REAR UPPER FORE LINK 1188421-00-B REAR LOWER FORE LINK ASSEMBLY 1044441-00-F REAR TOE LINK ASSEMBLY 1188431-00-A REAR HEIGHT SENSOR ASSEMBLY - LEFT HAND 1044971-00-C REAR STABILIZER BAR ASSEMBLY - 23.6MM X 3.5MM 1044481-00-E REAR STABILIZER BAR ASSEMBLY - 25.2X4.4MM 1188485-00-A REAR STABILIZER BAR LINK - LEFT HAND 1044491-00-F REAR STABILIZER BAR LINK - RIGHT HAND 1044496-00-F 3115 - Coil Spring Suspension System DAMPER ASSEMBLY COIL E3 - DUAL MOTOR - FRONT LEFT HAND 1188363-00-E DAMPER ASSEMBLY COIL E3 - FRONT LEFT HAND 1188363-00-H DAMPER ASSEMBLY COIL E1 - REAR WHEEL DRIVE - FRONT LEFT HAND 1188364-00-C DAMPER ASSEMBLY COIL E1 - REAR WHEEL DRIVE - FRONT LEFT HAND 1188365-00-B DAMPER ASSEMBLY COIL E3 - DUAL MOTOR - FRONT RIGHT HAND 1188368-00-E DAMPER ASSEMBLY COIL E3 - DUAL MOTOR - FRONT RIGHT HAND 1188368-00-H DAMPER ASSEMBLY COIL E1 - REAR WHEEL DRIVE - FRONT RIGHT HAND 1188369-00-C FRONT DAMPER ASSEMBLY - PERFORMANCE COIL - FRONT - DUAL MOTOR PERFORMANCE 1188371-00-E DAMPER ASSEMBLY COIL E3 - DUAL MOTOR PERFORMANCE - FRONT LEFT HAND 1188371-00-F FRONT DAMPER ASSEMBLY - RIGHT HAND - PERFORMANCE 1188376-00-E DAMPER ASSEMBLY COIL E3 - DUAL MOTOR PERFORMANCE - FRONT RIGHT HAND 1188376-00-F DAMPER ASSEMBLY COIL E1 - REAR WHEEL DRIVE - FRONT RIGHT HAND 1188379-00-B DAMPER ASSEMBLY COIL E1 - REAR WHEEL DRIVE - FRONT LEFT HAND 1288365-00-B DAMPER ASSEMBLY COIL E1 - REAR WHEEL DRIVE - FRONT RIGHT HAND 1288379-00-B MOUNT- FRONT UPPER CONTROL ARM - LEFT HAND 1044371-00-D MOUNT- FRONT UPPER CONTROL ARM - RIGHT HAND 1044376-00-D MOUNT ISOLATOR- FRONT UPPER CONTROL ARM - LEFT HAND 1044031-00-B MOUNT ISOLATOR- FRONT UPPER CONTROL ARM - RIGHT HAND 1044036-00-B DAMPER ASSEMBLY COIL - DUAL MOTOR - REAR 1188463-00-C DAMPER ASSEMBLY COIL - REAR WHEEL DRIVE - REAR 1188463-00-E DAMPER ASSEMBLY COIL - REAR WHEEL DRIVE - REAR 1188463-50-E DAMPER ASSEMBLY COIL - REAR WHEEL DRIVE - REAR 1188464-00-B REAR DAMPER ASSEMBLY - DUAL MOTOR PERFORMANCE 1188465-00-E DAMPER ASSEMBLY COIL - DUAL MOTOR PERFORMANCE - REAR 1188465-00-F REAR SPRING UPPER ISOLATOR 1188471-00-C SPRING, REAR, COIL 88.0-6750. 1188472-00-B SPRING - REAR - COIL 90.0-7200 1188474-00-B SPRING - REAR - COIL 90.0-7200 LOW 1188475-00-D SPRING - REAR - COIL 81-6850 1188476-00-B REAR SPRING ASSEMBLY - COIL 88-6850 1188479-00-A REAR SPRING ASSEMBLY COIL 81-7300 2288474-00-A REAR SPRING LOWER ISOLATOR 1044479-00-E RETENTION WASHER - M10. 1044407-00-A REAR JOUNCE BUMPER 1044464-00-C

Steering Parts online Catalogue Diagram List for Tesla Model Y, for pdf files contact us. Model Y Collision Repair Procedures Manual or Aftermarket Replace use 32 - Steering 3201 - Steering Rack and Lower Column STEERING GEAR ASSEMBLY - LEFT HAND DRIVE 1044832-00-B STEERING GEAR ASSY, LEFT HAND DRIVE 1188833-00-A 3205 - Upper Column and Steering Wheel STEERING WHEEL - PUR LEATHER 1490214-CN-D STEERING WEEL ASSEMBLY - PUR HEATED 1626599-00-D Steering Rim Assembly 2092566-00-A ELECTRIC STEERING COLUMN - LEFT HAND DRIVE 1188871-00-A STEERING COLUMN CONTROL MODULE 1097662-00-R INSTRUMENT PANEL STEERING COLUMN SHROUD UPPER ASSEMBLY 1683771-00-A STEERING WHEEL SWITCH - LEFT HAND - MATTE ALUMINUM 1094966-02-G STEERING WHEEL SWITCH - RIGHT HAND - MATTE ALUMINUM 1094965-02-G STEERING WHEEL ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT ASSEMBLY 1101556-03-C STEERING WHEEL - LOWER SPOKE COVER 1096972-00-D STEERING WHEEL - LOWER SPOKE COVER 1626612-00-A INSTRUMENT PANEL - STEERING COLUMN - SHROUD LOWER SUB 1099284-80-E INSTRUMENT PANEL - STEERING COLUMN - SHROUD LOWER SUB 1683775-00-A HEATED SWITCH SPOKE BRIGHT SURROUND 1508162-00-B STEERING WHEEL BRIGHT SURROUND 1626613-00-B SWITCH HARNESS 1508163-00-B SWITCH HARNESS 1626615-00-A STEERING WHEEL - HORN ASSEMBLY 1119156-00-D INSTRUMENT PANEL STEERING COLUMN UPPER GAP HIDER ASSEMBLY 1683951-00-A

The Body Parts List and Catalogue for Tesla Model Y diagram online, contact for pdf files Model Y Collision Repair Procedures Manual aftermarket replace parts only Bumper and Fascia 10 - Body Front and Rear Bumper Carrier Front and Rear Bumper Fascia Front and Rear Energy Absorber Front Grille and Applique Body Side Panels Center Under Body Closure Panels Front Fenders Front Inner Panels Front Inner Panels Structural Pack NVH Damping and Paint Armor Rear End Panels Rear Quarter Inner Panels Rear Under Body - One Piece Rear Under Body - Two Piece Roof Panels Structural Repair Consumables Front and Rear Door Glass Roof Glass Windshield and Liftgate Glass 1001 - Bumper and Fascia GRILLE - FRONT FASCIA 1493759-00-A TOW HOOK COVER - FRONT FASCIA 1493746-00-A TOW HOOK COVER - REAR FASCIA 1494426-00-A TOW HOOK 1077570-00-D COMPONENT - FRONT END CARRIER 1660026-00-A UPPER LEG SUPPORT 1495093-00-C LOWER GRILLE - FRONT END MODULE BRACKET 1514466-00-A FRONT FASCIA SERVICE - WITH PARKING ASSIST BRACKETS - UNPAINTED 1493736-SC-A FRONT FASCIA SERVICE - WITHOUT PARKING ASSIST BRACKETS - UNPAINTED 1493736-SC-C BRACKET - FASCIA SIDE TO FENDER - RIGHT HAND 1493771-00-B BRACKET - FASCIA SIDE TO FENDER - LEFT HAND 1493770-00-B BRACKET - FASCIA FRONT CENTER FENDER - LEFT HAND 1493772-00-B BRACKET - FASCIA FRONT CENTER FENDER RIGHT HAND 1493773-00-B BASE - FRONT FOG LAMP COVER - LEFT HAND 1490022-00-A BASE - FRONT FOG LAMP COVER - RIGHT HAND 1490023-00-A ASSEMBLY - FRONT BUMPER BEAM 1487601-00-F FRONT BUMPER BEAM FOAM 1487605-CN-A ASSEMBLY - ANKLE CATCHER 1505433-00-C ASSEMBLY - CRUSH CAN - LEFT HAND 1487461-00-E ASSEMBLY - CRUSH CAN - RIGHT HAND 1487462-00-E ASSEMBLY - CRUSH CAN FRONT SUBFRAME 1109193-00-C BRUSH CLIP - 6.5X33 - PA66 - B 1526009-00-A REAR FASCIA SERVICE - WITH PARKING ASSIST BRACKETS - UNPAINTED 1493735-SC-A REAR FASCIA SERVICE - WITHOUT PARKING ASSIST BRACKETS - UNPAINTED 1493735-SC-C LOWER REAR FASCIA 1494006-00-B TRAILER HITCH COVER ASSEMBLY - REAR FASCIA BASE 1494009-00-B BRACKET REAR CENTER ASSEMBLY 1494045-00-E TOW HOOK COVER - REAR FASCIA 1494426-00-A TAIL LAMP BRACKET ASSEMBLY LEFT HAND 1506968-00-E TAIL LIGHT BRACKET ASSEMBLY - RIGHT HAND 1506969-00-E REAR WING BRACKET - ASSEMBLY - LEFT HAND 1494043-00-A REAR WING BRAKET - ASSEMBLY - RIGHT HAND 1494044-00-A ASSEMBLY - REAR BUMPER BEAM 1487616-00-B 1010 - Body Panels ASSEMBLY - BODY SIDE OUTER LEFT HAND SERVICE E-COATED 1511000-S0-A 1511000-ST-A ASSEMBLY - BODY SIDE OUTER RIGHT HAND SERVICE E-COATED 1512000-S0-A 1512000-ST-A ASSEMBLY - AB PILLAR OUTER - LEFT HAND 1549228-S0-A ASSEMBLY - AB PILLAR OUTER - RIGHT HAND 1549229-S0-A REAR QUARTER OUTER ASSEMBLY - LEFT HAND SERVICE E-COAT 1549230-S0-A REAR QUARTER OUTER ASSEMBLY - RIGHT HAND SERVICE E-COAT 1549231-S0-A PANEL - REAR QUARTER OUTER - LEFT HAND 1487421-S0-E PANEL - REAR QUARTER OUTER - RIGHT HAND 1487422-S0-E ASSEMBLY - BODY SIDE OUTER FRONT CAP - LEFT HAND 1487427-S0-A ASSEMBLY - BODY SIDE OUTER FRONT CAP - RIGHT HAND 1487428-S0-A FENDER BRACKET - LEFT HAND 1487429-S0-C FENDER BRACKET - RIGHT HAND 1487430-S0-C ASSEMBLY - FENDER LOWER BRACKET - LEFT HAND 1487443-S0-A ASSEMBLY - FENDER LOWER BRACKET - RIGHT HAND 1487444-S0-A ROOF RACK BRACKET - FRONT - LEFT HAND 1487431-S0-B ROOF RACK BRACKET - FRONT - RIGHT HAND 1487432-S0-B ROOF RACK BRACKET - REAR - LEFT HAND 1487433-S0-B ROOF RACK BRACKET - REAR - RIGHT HAND 1487434-S0-B ASSEMBLY - DOOR RING OUTER - LEFT HAND 1487697-S0-F ASSEMBLY - DOOR RING OUTER - RIGHT HAND 1487698-S0-F ASSEMBLY - DOOR RING OUTER - LEFT HAND SERVICE E-COATED 1609143-S0-D ASSEMBLY - DOOR RING OUTER - RIGHT HAND SERVICE E-COATED 1609144-S0-D ASSEMBLY - DOOR RING INNER WITH HEADER REINFORCEMENT - LEFT HAND SERVICE E-COATED 1487725-S0-A 1487725-ST-A ASSEMBLY - DOOR RING INNER WITH HEADER REINFORCEMENT - RIGHT HAND SERVICE E-COATED 1487726-S0-A 1487726-ST-A ASSEMBLY - DOOR RING INNER - STRUCTURAL PACK - LEFT HAND 1608447-S0-F ASSEMBLY - DOOR RING INNER - STRUCTURAL PACK - RIGHT HAND 1608448-S0-E SIDE SILL INSERT 1526249-S0-D 1626431-S0-D ASSEMBLY - COWL SIDE INSTRUMENT PANEL - BULKHEAD - LEFT HAND SERVICE E-COAT 1487693-S0-A ASSEMBLY - COWL SIDE INSTRUMENT PANEL BULKHEAD RIGHT HAND SERVICE E-COATED 1487694-S0-A COWL SIDE BULKHEAD LEFT HAND SERVICE E-COATED 1487729-S0-A COWL SIDE BULKHEAD RIGHT HAND SERVICE E-COATED 1487730-S0-A SILL INNER LOWER REINFORCE SERVICE E-COATED 1516583-S0-A 1516584-S0-A SILL INNER FRONT CLOSE OUT LEFT HAND SERVICE E-COATED 1518729-S0-A SILL INNER FRONT CLOSE OUT RIGHT HAND SERVICE E-COATED 1518730-S0-A ASSEMBLY - SILL INNER LOWER EXTENSION - LEFT HAND 1434970-S0-D 1474167-S0-B PANEL - SILL INNER LOWER EXTENSION - RIGHT HAND 1474168-S0-F EXTENSION SILL INNER LOWER RIGHT HAND E- COATED 1614230-ST-C ASSEMBLY - SILL INNER LOWER EXTENSION - STRUCTURAL PACK - LEFT HAND 1634970-ST-C FRONT SILL INSERT SECTION KIT 1467695-00-B HOOD ASSEMBLY COMPONENT SERVICE E-COATED 1493370-E0-A 1493370-ET-A HOOD BUMPSTOP 1090735-00-E FRONT DOOR - LEFT HAND - SERVICE E-COA...

In general, when the transparent outer shell of the front part of a car headlight is damaged, the conventional repair is to replace the headlight assembly with a new one. However, the price of a new headlight assembly is relatively expensive. If there is insurance, replacing the headlight can be done, but if there is no insurance, it is not willing to replace the assembly. What should we do about this? Many people are unaware that some headlight casings can be replaced. This time, let's take a look at the process of replacing the transparent casing of the headlights. The transparent shell of the headlight has a very obvious large hole, as shown in the picture. The picture below shows the new headlight casing. The technician said it is the original headlight casing, which is much more expensive than the non original one. The transparent shell of the headlight is very firmly attached to the black plastic at the rear, with good sealing, making it very difficult to remove directly. Therefore, the mechanic used a grinder to cut off the transparent shell. When cutting off the transparent shell, some impurities enter the headlight and need to be blown out with high-pressure air later. At this point, there is still a part of the transparent shell inside the rear shell, which is firmly fixed with sealant. There are hidden U-shaped metal strips fixed on the side of the rear shell groove, which need to be removed. Blow the groove clean with high-pressure air, and also blow the inside of the headlights clean, as shown in the following picture. After blowing clean, place the sealing strip as indicated by the arrow in the following figure. Pay attention to reserving the rubber sleeve interface at the lower part of the headlight to prevent water from entering the headlight due to poor sealing of the sealing ring interface. After inserting the sealing strip, place the headlight in the oven. The technician said it will take about ten minutes to soften the sealing strip. Ten minutes later, remove the headlights and align the new casing with the groove. Next, two mechanics need to cooperate. One mechanic uses a carp clamp to clamp the rear and front shells, while the other mechanic inserts a U-shaped steel wire strip. As shown in the figure below, the new transparent shell has been combined with the black rear shell. This is the repaired headlight. This is the headlight of BYD Qin PLUS.

A Nissan NV200 entered the store, and the owner said that the steering wheel always shakes while driving. As long as they release their hand, the car will run to one side, and they can also hear the creaking sound of the chassis. They suspect that the screw on the right front wheel tire is loose. After listening to the car owner's description, the mechanic checked the screw on the right front wheel and found that it was fixed properly. However, the wheel looked misaligned, with the front of the wheel opening outward and the vertical angle slightly inward. At this time, the steering wheel is in the middle position. What could be the problem? The mechanic checked the left front wheel and found it to be in the normal position, indicating that there is indeed a problem with the right front wheel. Sitting in the car and shaking the steering wheel, one can hear a sound coming from the chassis, which is from the position of the right front wheel. This situation is very abnormal and needs to be lifted up to check the chassis. When the mechanic saw the problem with the chassis, he was very surprised. He didn't expect that the problem was on the subframe. As shown by the arrow in the picture below, there was a very obvious crack in the fixed position of the lower support arm on the subframe, which is a very rare situation. We observe from the bottom, as shown in the figure below, this position of the subframe is about to break. If it breaks, it means that there is a problem with the support of the right front wheel, which may pull out the half axle. At that time, waiting for the bus will definitely cause it to collapse. After learning about this situation, the car owner was extremely angry. He didn't expect that there would be a problem with the position of the subframe. The key is that the car has never had an accident. How could this be? The mechanic explained that it is likely due to the poor road conditions during normal driving, which are quite bumpy. By observing the location of the cracks in the subframe, it can be seen that the cracks have existed for a long time, but now the cracks have become larger and are not enough to support the lower support arm to maintain a normal state. This subframe is made of steel material, and the anti rust paint on the surface has fallen off a lot, showing a lot of rust, as shown in the following picture. How should this problem be solved? Can it be welded well? Car owner problem master. The master said that welding is not possible and a new subframe is needed. After replacing the subframe, four-wheel alignment is also required. After the car owner agreed, the mechanic removed the subframe, as shown in the picture below. This is its subframe, which is a half frame type subframe. Looking at the damaged position of the subframe, where the lower support arm rubber sleeve is installed, we can analyze the cause of the damage: scratches, rust, and abnormal road impact have occurred, causing cracks to grow larger and eventually unable to support the lower support arm. Look at the back of the subframe, there is a large area of rust. After removing the subframe, the steering gear and stabilizer bar are also installed on the subframe. This repair case reminds us that if our car experiences abnormal situations while driving, which are different from normal driving, we must promptly have a professional mechanic inspect and eliminate risks.

In the vehicle suspension system, the control arm is one of the crucial components, responsible for connecting the wheels and the body, and undertaking the task of absorbing vibrations generated during driving. Due to frequent exposure to various impacts and vibrations from the road surface, the damage rate of the control arm has become a common concern for car owners. According to relevant research, the maintenance frequency of control arms is influenced by various factors, including driving conditions, driving habits, and the design of the vehicle itself. Normally, under good maintenance conditions, the control arm can maintain a long service life. However, prolonged driving on rough and uneven roads, or excessive driving habits, can increase the wear and tear rate of the control arm, thereby increasing its maintenance frequency. It is worth noting that once the control arm malfunctions, it will directly affect the vehicle's handling stability and ride comfort, and may even threaten driving safety. Therefore, regularly checking the status of the control arm and carrying out necessary repairs and replacements in a timely manner is crucial to ensuring the safe operation of the vehicle. In addition, choosing reliable components and professional maintenance services is also an effective way to reduce the frequency of control arm maintenance. In summary, although the frequency of damage to the control arm cannot be given a fixed value, reasonable maintenance and upkeep can effectively extend its service life and ensure driving safety.

The function of the suspension control arms of your vehicle is to connect the wheels to the frame and function as an essential part of the suspension system. The control arm acts as a mounting point for the wheel and complete suspension assembly. Due to their location, control arms are constantly subjected to harsh environments, road debris, and shocks. Over time, this leads to wear, and you have to replace your control arms. However, if you are planning to replace the control arm yourself, it can be difficult and tricky if the parts are corroded or if the ball joint is damaged. Replacing a control arm requires a little experience and some tools, but can be easy if you have worked on your vehicle before. If you are witnessing symptoms of control arm failure, you should install a new control arm. This stepwise control arm replacement guide will help you replace your old, worn-out control arm with a new one. 1. How To Replace The Lower Control Arm? Replacing your lower control arm is fairly easy and straightforward in most passenger cars. It depends on the suspension design and the type of vehicle you own. For example, it is difficult to work on a vehicle with a torsion bar and should be left to a professional mechanic. In this guide, we will learn how to replace the lower control arm on a vehicle with a MacPherson suspension system or double wishbone suspension system, which is mostly used in off-road vehicles and SUVs. Also, to ensure a hassle-free and perfect installation, it’s important to purchase the correct lower control arm. 2. Remove The Wheel First, loosen the lug nuts but do not remove them completely. Secure the wheel by leaving a lug nut on so that the wheel doesn’t fall unexpectedly when you lift the car with a jack. Position the jack according to the owner’s manual’s instructions for changing a tire. Lift the car using the jack, and place the jack stands under the car for stability. Remove the bolts that secure the wheel and remove the wheel. 3. Remove The Ball Joint Removing the wheel will expose the steering knuckle. Start with removing the ball joint. Remove the cotter pin (not every car has it), which is located below the castle nut, and lock the ball joint. Some cars have a pinch bolt instead of a castle nut. Use a wrench to loosen the nut or the pinch bolt after removing the cotter pin. You can use a screwdriver to create space between the pinch bolts so that the fit isn’t tight. Then, by using a hammer, strike the spindle or the control arm to remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle. 4. Remove The Sway Bar or Stabilizer Bar Link A sway bar, also known as a stabilizer bar, is a long, U-shaped rod that prevents the vehicle from rolling over at corners. These are connected to the control arm with the help of a sway bar link. Remove the nut by holding it with a wrench or a socket and loosening the nut with a socket. After loosening it, you may need to shock it loose, just like you did with the ball joint. Remove it from the lower control arm mount so that plenty of space is available to do the next job. 5. Remove The Control Arm Mounting Bolts The control arm is mounted to the frame or subframe of the vehicle by two bolts, which can be in a vertical or horizontal position. Some of them may have a nut on the backside, and you can loosen these bolts using a wrench and a breaker bar. After loosening these bolts, the arm may come loose and is ready to be removed from the vehicle. You might have to remove the engine splash shield to gain better access to the control arm bolts. 6. Install The New Control Arm Grab your new control arm and inspect if the pre-fitted bushings are functioning properly and are greased. When installing the control arm, the first step is to align the bolt holes. It can be a little tricky as the other hole may get out of alignment. Use a screwdriver to align the holes and insert a new set of nuts and bolts. It is critical to replace your old control arm nuts and bolts because they may be rusted and rounded off. Hand-tighten the nuts and bolts. 7. Attach The Sway Bar Link And Ball Joint Reattach the sway bar link you removed earlier. After doing this, insert the lower ball joint of the control arm into the steering knuckle. Ensure the ball joint is seated on the steering knuckle properly by using a hammer. Hand-tighten the castle nut or the pinch bolt that holds the control arm ball joint to the steering knuckle. Also, hand-tighten the sway bar link and other hardware. Tighten all the control arm ball joints and sway bar nuts and bolts to the recommended torque specifications using a torque wrench. Insert the cotter pin underneath the ball joint and castle nut. 8Reinstall The Wheels And Test Drive Reinstall the wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts. Remove the jack and jack stands and lower the vehicle. Tighten your lug nuts using a torque wrench. Finally, take the vehicle out for a short spin and drive it like you usually do. While doing so, listen for strange noises...

When it comes to upgrading your car's suspension system, one of the key decisions you'll face is choosing between adjustable and fixed control arms. Both types serve crucial roles in maintaining vehicle stability and handling, but they offer distinct advantages and are suited to different driving needs. Adjustable control arms provide the flexibility to fine-tune the suspension geometry of your car. This can be particularly beneficial for performance enthusiasts who want to dial in their car's handling characteristics to perfection. Whether you're aiming for better cornering grip, reduced understeer or oversteer, or a more balanced ride, adjustable control arms give you the control you need to make these adjustments. They are also ideal for vehicles that see frequent track use or require specific suspension settings for different driving conditions. On the other hand, fixed control arms offer a more straightforward and cost-effective solution. They are designed to maintain a fixed position relative to the chassis and wheels, providing a predictable and reliable suspension setup. Fixed control arms are often the choice for daily drivers who prioritize comfort, reliability, and a hassle-free driving experience. They are less complex and typically require less maintenance than adjustable alternatives. Ultimately, the decision between adjustable and fixed control arms comes down to your specific needs and driving style. If you're looking to squeeze every last bit of performance out of your car, adjustable control arms may be the way to go. For those who prioritize simplicity, reliability, and cost-effectiveness, fixed control arms offer a solid and dependable option.